If you’re looking for a weekend getaway from the hustle and bustle of your life and immerse yourself in the tantalizing world of food and art, Seoul could be your perfect destination. On my excursion to the capital of Korea, we checked out the latest exhibitions at the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, teased our taste buds with traditional Korean delicacies, and hopped into a few charming cafés in town. 

From ICN to Downtown

The cheapest and the fastest way to get to Seoul Station from Incheon International Airport is Airport Railroad Express (AREX), of which a huge sign shows you the way when you enter the arrival hall. There are two types of services to choose from – the express train (9,000KRW/ 7USD) and the all-stop train (4,150KRW / 3.2USD). The former one takes 45 mins, with free wifi and an assigned seat, while the latter takes up to an hour and you may have to stand for the whole journey. If you prefer the express train, you can save a few bugs by buying a discounted ticket on certain online platforms such as Klook. Also, make sure to check the schedule as the train departs every 20 to 40 mins. 

When you reach Seoul Station, you can take a taxi or the metro to your hotel. It takes about 10 mins to walk from the AREX station to the metro platforms, and you have to walk up and down the stairs, some of which have conveyors on the side for luggage.

If you don’t want to drag your heavy luggage, taxi service is also available at the airport to make your journey hassle-free, and it costs around 44,000KRW (34USD). Otherwise, you may take the City Limousine Bus, which takes around 70 mins to the city center. 

Perfect Plate to Share

It had already reached dinner time when I met up with my friend, and we went to a restaurant dedicated to serving up braised pig trotters, a traditional Korean dish dating back to the 1960s. Being cooked in a soy sauce-based stock for hours, the trotters are deboned and sliced before being nicely arranged on the plate. These savory pieces contain three layers – the gelatinous skin, the meltingly soft fat, and the tender meat – which allow diners to enjoy a symphony of textures. To enrich the tasting experience, you should wrap the pork in fresh lettuce leaves, with garlic, green peppers, and a paste made from fermented shrimp.

I was worried that the trotters would be too greasy and fatty for me like those I found in Chinese dim sum restaurants, but it wasn’t the case. It’s perfect to go with a Terra beer, a clean and crisp pale lager proudly produced in the country. 

Pancakes for Breakfast

For those who are looking for a scrumptious breakfast and a huge coffee to start the morning, Butterfinger Pancakes is an American-style restaurant that delivers all-day breakfast in large portions. I ordered the signature Split Decision Plate, which includes two pancakes, two French toast, sausages, a grilled ham steak, bacon strips, seasoned potatoes, and eggs of your choice. The pancakes are light and soft, and it comes with either maple syrup or honey. You can also opt for vanilla butter instead of the original flavor. 

Address: 15 Yeongjung-ro, Yeongdeungpo-gu (there are two other branches in Gangnam and Jung districts)

Modern Art Delight

Situated next to Gyeongbokgung, the main royal palace of the Joseon dynasty, the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art (MMCA) is home to around 10,000 artworks by local and international artists, with a variety of temporary exhibitions that are sure to blow your mind.

I was in luck to come across the Hyundai Motor Series 2022: Choe U-Ram – Little Ark. Made of heavy iron and recycled cardboard boxes, the symbolic ark features thirty-five pairs of oars that would perform a spectacular dance as if spreading wings. Another intriguing exhibition is respectively, Peter Weibel. Art as an Act of Cognition, which showcases 70 creative works of the renowned Austrian media and concept artist, many of which are fun and interactive. This retrospective exhibition is available until mid-May.

Coffee Time in a Hanok

About a 20-min walk from MMCA, Onion Anguk is a popular café built in a century-old Hanok (Korean traditional house). With nostalgic architecture, a spacious courtyard, and a slew of exquisite bread and pastries, the café is frequented by both locals and tourists. After securing your seat, you can grab a tong, pick your favorite croissants, bread rolls, or fruit tarts, and order a coffee at the counter.

The white grape tart was enticing, of which the slight sourness of the succulent fruit cut through the sweetness of the cream, while the cheese bread would be more delectable if it’s served straight out of the oven. The ambiance of the Korean house was so relaxing that we stayed there until the sky dusked and the day gave way to the night.

Address: 5 Gyedong-gil, Jongno-gu

A Healthy Supper

For dinner, we headed to a restaurant that serves grilled eel, which is considered a traditional health dish in Korea that nourishes the body and boosts energy. When the staff placed the marinated eel onto the side of our grill and cut it into small pieces, we were a bit surprised that it had been cooked and ready to be consumed. We were expecting the fun of grilling the fish by ourselves.

Sesame leaves were served on the side for you to wrap the grilled eel before savoring it. The texture of the meat is chewy and the taste is rather bland, opposite to the Japanese grilled eel that I like.

Late Night Snack

Not finding the grilled eel fulfilling, we took a seat in Seol Mac Casual Pub and ordered a pot of fish cake soup to share. As one of the popular street fare and comfort food in Korea, the skewered fish cakes are perfect to go with soju or beer. Although it was almost 10 pm, the restaurant was packed with young people drinking and chatting over Korean pop music. This is the place to be if you look for an energetic vibe in the area.   

Address: 16 Pildong-ro, Jung-gu

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