The first thing that comes to my mind about Bordeaux is wine. Visiting chateaux and vineyards seems like a must-do activity in this wine-producing hub, and the best time to go is from April to October when the weather is warm, especially in September during the harvest season. However, my flying schedule just allowed me to spend two days there in late November so I decided to leave the winery excursion for another time and mainly explore the heart of the Port of the Moon.

You can get from Paris to Bordeaux by plane or train. As I wanted to take advantage of my discounted standby ticket, I took a 1.5-hour flight with Air France from the Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport. Having landed at the Bordeaux–Mérignac Airport, you can take the Navette Shuttle 30’ Direct (€8) to downtown in 30 mins or grab the public bus (€1.70) and arrive at St Jean train station an hour later. If you are planning to go around town by public transport, you may purchase a TBM day pass (€5) or a Christmas pass (€3) if you’re there during the festive season.

Day 1

My first stop in Bordeaux was the Place de la Bourse, the most recognizable sight in the city that is on the UNESCO World Heritage list as “an outstanding urban and architectural ensemble” of the 18th century. Sitting in the middle of the square is the Fountain of the Three Grace, where a statue of King Louis XV was located before being destroyed during the French Revolution.

While you’re at the plaza during summer, you couldn’t miss the Miroir d’eau (water mirror), the largest reflecting pool in the world that covers an area of 3,450 square meters of granite slabs. A fountain system was built underground to generate plumes of mist every fifteen minutes, leaving 2cm of water on the ground afterwards to reveal a dreamy reflection of the Place de la Bourse. However, the mechanic system ceases to operate during winter months so make sure you time your visit to avoid disappointment.

Another square that you cannot afford to miss is the Place des Quinconces, which is the largest of its kind in Europe. It’s a year-round venue for fairs, exhibitions, art and sport events. I was in time for an antique market with dozens of booths selling vintage furniture, clothes, books, paintings, decorations, and many more. To the West, the Monument aux Girondins stands tall with a statue of liberty perched on top, paying tributes to Girondin revolutionaries. The base of this distinctive landmark is finished with a bronze fountain that is elaborately adorned with sculptures of sea creatures and human figures.

Even though I had decided not to go on a winery tour, a trip to Bordeaux is not complete without doing something wine-related. Apart from drinking a lot of the antidote, visiting the Cité du Vin is the best way to immerse yourself in the world of wine, learning about its history, growing regions, producing methods, aromas, and flavors from a variety of interactive and fun exhibits. Don’t forget to redeem a glass of wine (included in the €22 ticket) on the eighth floor of the museum, from where you can take in the panoramic view of the city.

When you walk back to the museum’s namesake tram station, stop to marvel at the Jacques Chaban-Delmas bridge, the highest lift bridge in Europe celebrating the marriage of technology and aesthetics. Straddling the Garonne river, this modern creation is gracefully illuminated at night, with the pylons sprucely lighting up in blue color during high tide and green color in the course of low tide.

One of the good reasons to travel to Europe in December has to be the Christmas market. In Bordeaux, the biggest Marché de Noël is on Allées de Tourny, with 150 pavilions paddling Christmas merchandise like chocolate, ornaments, candles, and toys, as well as local products. It is not only the perfect spot from which to stock up on your Christmas presents but also to soak in the festive spirit and enjoy a cup of mulled wine and traditional delicacies.

Day 2

Waking up early in the morning, I was finding my way to a cute café named Books & Coffee for breakfast (their cinnamon bun is the best I have ever had). It’s located on Rue Saint James, and to get there, it’s necessary to pass through the Grosse Cloche, one of the oldest belfries in France that served as a former dungeon for juveniles. Cast in 1775, the bell rings six times a year on special occasions and the first Sunday of each month at noon.

After sating your appetite, you could shop till you drop on the 1.2km long rue Sainte-Catherine, hailed as the longest pedestrian shopping street in Europe; or spend some quiet time in the endearing Bordeaux Cathedral, aka Saint-André Cathedral. The catholic church witnessed many historical events, including the marriages of Eleanor of Aquitaine and Louis VII, as well as Anne of Austria and Louis XIII. For those who don’t mind sweating a little, climb up the 229 steps to the top of the flamboyant Pey-Berland Tower nearby, and you will be rewarded with an amazing view of the city. The bell tower opens daily except Monday and the entrance costs €6.

If the weather is nice, I highly recommend you to head to the Jardin Public, a surprisingly beautiful garden perfect for a relaxing stroll or picnic. During the late fall and the beginning of the winter season, the green space transforms to a riot of colors, with some areas resembling an exquisite Japanese garden with flocks of ducks gliding through the tranquil water. It’s also home to a children’s playground, the Natural History Museum, and the Guignol Guérin puppet show.

The two restaurants I have tried in Bordeaux are both incredible and affordable. At Les Drôles (21 Rue Saint-Rémi), the three-course menu (€22) featured baked Saint Nectaire cheese with bacon, medium-rare duck breast with porcini mushroom sauce, and salted caramel crème brulée; while the beef tartare (€12) at Petit Mignon (33 Rue Saint-Rémi) is huge for one person and comes with lots of fries. Make sure you reserve a table as they can get quite packed at dinner.