When I heard of Petra, the only thing that came to mind was the iconic, exquisitely decorated façade carved from a cliff of rosy sandstone, namely the Treasury. But this rock-cut capital city of the Nabateans that had lost to the Western world for hundreds of years has so much more to offer for travelers interested in history, architecture, and natural wonders.

Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the New Seven Wonders of the World, Petra is an expansive archaeological site characterized by the red and pink sandstone landscape. Archaeologists revealed that they only excavated 15% of the city, with the majority still underground and waiting to be discovered. Today, people from all around the world are drawn here by the Treasury, made popular in movies including the Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.

Petra opens daily from 6 a.m. To avoid a tourist crowd, go in as early as possible. Tickets can be bought at the entrance. A one-day ticket costs JD50 (USD70), while two-day and three-day tickets are available at JD55 (USD78) and JD60 (USD85) respectively and grant you more time to explore different hiking routes. Walking from the entrance to the famous Treasury takes about 30 minutes passing through the Siq, a narrow, magical gorge approximately 1.2 kilometers long and up to 80 meters high.

Known as Al-Khazneh in Arabic, the Treasury is believed to have been the mausoleum of the Nabatean King Aretas IV in the 1st century AD. Crowning the structure is an ornate stone urn with bullet holes on the surface by Bedouins who thought it contained pharaonic treasures, while the fact is that it is made of solid sandstone. The other sculptures are thought to be mythological figures associated with the afterlife. If you have watched the movie Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, you know they walk into the Treasury and found the Holy Grail, but in reality, what is behind the beautiful façade is only a plain chamber that is not accessible to visitors.

While we were taking photos in front of the Treasury,  a few locals approached us and asked if we wanted to get up to an elevated vantage point to enjoy a better view. We paid 10JD (USD14) as he asked, expecting him to help us up the steep and slippery slope. However, he just pointed the way and left to search for another tourist. When we reached the top, a pirate-looking Bedouin with thick, smoky eyeliners served us sweet tea and instructed us to sit on the colorful carpets for Instagrammable photos. Climbing up requires muscle strength while going down tests one’s nerve of steel. We saw a man run up the slope without paying those local people, who shouted and tried to catch him, but he was too fast.

The site got more crowded when we got down and continued our leisure walk on the main trail, which is flat and passes by attractions like the Street of Facades, the Theatre, and the Great Temple. The challenge is to climb the 800 steps leading up to the Monastery perched on the hills. If you are worried about your fitness, you can ride a donkey for a fee. Souvenir shops are set up along the path with a variety of clothing and artifacts selling at much lower prices than those in the city center. There are also some detours on the way, including the Lion Triclinium, with its name inspired by the two weathered lions on both sides of the entrance door.

After ascending the intimidating stairs, we finally arrived at the Monastery, arguably the second most visited attraction after the Treasury. Measuring 47 meters high and 48 meters wide, it looks even more majestic than the Treasury. Opposite the Monastery is a snack shop, the perfect spot from which to take in the mighty view cast by the afternoon sun.

After six hours of hiking, my legs were sore on the way back, and I wondered how I could return to the Treasury after dark for the Petra Light Festival, a two-week-long event that sees the monument come alive with a combination of riveting, dynamic lights, vibrant music and captivating narratives. We all sat on the floor for 30 minutes to enjoy the 3D mapping spectacle featuring work by different artists. It was a fascinating light performance, but what I loved the most has to be the night walk, only illuminated by a string of tiny light bulbs on the ground. The Siq was embellished with dazzling lighting and special sound effects, reminding me of Aladdin walking into the cave for the Genie lamp.

The 2024 Petra Light Festival will be held from 23 April to 3 May. If your schedule doesn’t allow you to participate in the festival, Petra by Night is another not-to-be-missed experience with the Treasury lightened up by a bevy of candlelights. It runs on Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday all year round.