February in Seoul is freezing, with an average temperature of 4°C to -5°C. Knitwear and wool jackets might give you protection from the chilly weather but nothing can beat a bowl of soup that is reminiscent of a warm hug from your grandma. That’s what brought us to Hanilkwan, a Korean restaurant that has served traditional fare based on royal cuisine since 1939. 

The acclaimed restaurant has a few branches in the city, and we went to the one located in Yeongdeungpo District. While their menu offers an extensive range of Korean dishes, we both ordered their signature beef short rib soup, which is served in a sizzling hot brass pot, with a bowl of rice on the side. The nourishing broth has a clean and mellow taste. Hidden in it are long strips of meat, which could have been tenderer in my opinion.  

Trendy Locale for Shopping & Dessert

Brimming with stylish boutiques, designer stores, charming cafés, and hip restaurants, Sinsa-dong in Gangnam District is an upscale and modish neighborhood favored by young people and tourists. While strolling along the famed Garosu-gil Street, you can marvel at the lines of skinny Ginko trees wrapped in colorful, endearing blankets as if they are feeling cold as well.

The artistic vibe extends to the bevy of brunch spots and coffee shops located in the area. Behind a dark grey façade and a pair of yellow double doors is the multi-story C27 Cheesecake & Coffee, a perfect spot from which to enjoy something sweet while posting an Instagram story against its beautifully-decorated interiors. As its name suggested, the café offers 27 flavors of cheesecakes, with different intensities of sweetness indicated on the tags. Upon the touch of the fork, the cake crumbles easily, and its texture interestingly resembles the filling of snowy mooncakes, while the Earl Grey flavor was too sweet to bring out the floral essence of the tea.  

Address: 39 Dosan-daero 15-gil, Gangnam-gu

After exploring the shopping area and getting ourselves some souvenirs (I highly recommend you to visit Tamburins, not only for their coveted perfumes but the horse installation that is easily mistaken as a real one), we then headed to another highly-rated café named Maman Gateau, an unpretentious yet elegant space decked out in hanging brass lamps and wooden floor. It’s almost 6 pm and we’re the only customers at this golden hour. Perfect match to the last coffee of the day, their matcha roll cake is soft and fluffy with a soothing hint of the Japanese beverage.

Address: 30-12 Apgujeong-ro 10-gil, Gangnam-gu

Fresh Whelk for the Night

Coming to the last meal of my trip, we attempted a popular Korean seafood dish that puts fresh whelks into a pot of flavorsome stock cooked with seaweed, onions, skewers of fish cakes, and chili peppers that inject a spicy kick. Attached to the big spiral shells, the whelks have a supple, meaty texture, with a good balance of saltiness and sweetness. To enrich the tasting experience, top it with a sprinkle of bright orange flying fish roe before enveloping it with a sesame leaf and a crispy piece of seaweed. After finishing the ingredients in the pot, we also asked for some udon to go with the broth so we don’t waste anything.

Let’s check out my video filmed in Seoul!