Before heading to Fez, what I have heard about this northeastern Moroccan city was its labyrinth of narrow streets and the overwhelming swarm of mosquitos hovering in the air. These were also my first impression of the city when I stepped out from the comfort of our riad, a traditional Moroccan accommodation.

When navigating in Casablanca and Marrakesh, Google Maps was our savior. However, in Fez – a maze-like wonder – we needed to rely on our memories and luck to return to our riad after a day of exploration. Listed as a World Heritage Site, Fez is home to the world’s oldest university; several medersas (educational institutions) bedecked with amazing zellij tile work and ornate cedar wood carving; and vibrant souks selling leather goods, handicrafts, and intricate lamps. But if there’s only one thing you must see here, it’s unarguably the Chouara Tannery, the oldest and largest of its kind in the city.

Located in Fes el Bali, the ancient walled medina of Fez, the Chouara Tannery has stood in the city for over a thousand years and its production process has barely changed since the medieval time. Tourists are forbidden to get inside the tannery, but you can observe the action from the terrace of one of the leather shops nearby. To enjoy the fascinating view of the multi-colored dyeing vats, one must bear the suffocating stench coming from cow urine and pigeon feces used in cleaning and softening the hides. Remember to take a sprig of mint from the guide before going up to the terrace. It’ll save your life.