When planning my trip to Cuba, I spent a lot of time thinking how much time I should allocate to Cienfuegos as many online reviews labeled it as a boring city that could be explored within a few hours. Considering it’s a 4.5-hour drive from Havana, I decided to stay for a day and a half before heading to Trinidad, believing the French colonial town had something special to offer.
The weather had been very frustrating since I arrived in Cuba, raining on and off almost every day, and there’s no exception in Cienfuegos, which had been thoroughly washed by a heavy rain when I got off the bus. Israel picked me up at the station and walked me to his casa that was equal past as an art gallery. He and his wife Tania are both artists and his talented 18-year-old son Alexander has just been admitted to an art school in Havana. Paintings of ancient gods and goddess are hanged on the walls of the living room while Finding Memos characters adorned the corridor leading to my bedroom which is also graced by their beautiful artworks.
Settled by French immigrants in 1819, Cienfuegos exudes a different vibe than other Cuban cities, retaining a lot of eclectic architecture with neoclassical decorations. It seemed that the rain had chased tourists and locals away from the city center, leaving only a few kids playing soccer – with a basketball – in the slippery streets. For those who want to take in the view of the city, walk up the spinning stairs to the cupola of the remarkable blue-colored Palacio Ferrer, located at the corner of Parque José Martí. I planned to have a look inside Teatro Tomas Terry, a national monument, but another traveler who I met on the bus told me 5CUC entrance fee was way too expensive for what it’s worth.
After exploring the deserted historic urban center, I took a stroll along the Malecon (an esplanade along the waterfront), heading south to the famous Punta Gorda. The enticing sunset view and breezy air made the long walk easier. I sat down at a table by the marina at Covadonga restaurant recommended by Israel. With an unobstructed view of the water, it’s a great spot from which to enjoy a refreshing mojito but you can omit their food menu. I had the worst paella in my life.
El Nicho waterfalls was the reason for me to spend one more day in Cienfuegos but the weathers didn’t do me the favor. So I changed my plan to the Jagua Castle, a Spanish military fortress built in the late 18 century to protect the bay from pirates who prowled the Caribbean coast. To get there, you can either take the ferry at 8am or 1pm. Costing 1CUC for foreigner each way, the trip is around 40 minutes, and you can opt to return at 10am or 3pm. Constructed in solid limestone, the fortress includes a watchtower, a well, a drawbridge, and a couple of exhibition halls showcasing the history of the site. The highlight of the visit was the amazing view of the Cienfuegos harbor.
My dinner at Big Bang Café at Calle 37 was much better than Covadonga. I ordered a plate of grilled fish with Cuban rice and black bean (a Cuban staple), complemented with a glass of Pina Colada.
Comparing to Havana, Cienfuegos is peaceful and quiet. If you’re not going to El Nicho, a day or two would be enough to experience the city. Before I left Israel’s casa , I bought a postcard-sized drawing by Alexander that features Palacio de Gobierno (the Government Palace). The vibrant color strokes caught my attention at first sight, but more importantly, I believe appreciation from a complete stranger would bring huge encouragement to the young boy. And it feels good to make people happy.
My Cuban stories:
Crystal on the journey 